Japanese Colors
Colors / Brown in Japan / Kōrozen

Kōrozen

黄櫨染 · こうろぜん · “Sumac-dyed”

A yellow-tinged brown dyed with sumac, and the first of the kinjiki — the forbidden colors. Reserved for the emperor's use, it stood at the very summit of the color hierarchy.

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Sources
ja.wikipedia #D99502 · en.wikipedia #592B1F
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How it was dyed in 927

The Engishiki — the court regulations completed in 927 — records exactly what the palace dyehouse was allotted to dye this color. Quantities are per bolt of cloth; units are left in the original (1 kin ≈ 600 g, 1 shō ≈ 0.7 L in later standards — Heian equivalents are debated).

黄櫨 こうろぜん Kōrozen yellow-sappan

For 1 bolt of twill silk
櫨十四斤wax-tree wood (haze) · 14 kin
蘇芳十一斤sappanwood · 11 kin
酢二升vinegar · 2 shō
灰三斛lye ash · 3 koku
薪八荷firewood · 8 loads

The Engishiki also gives scaled quantities for: 1 bolt of plain silk.

Original text 原文

黄櫨綾一疋、櫨十四斤、蘇芳十一斤、酢二升、灰三斛、薪八荷、帛一疋、紫草十五斤、酢一升、灰一斛、薪四荷、

Text: 『デジタル延喜式』校訂文(縫殿寮), National Museum of Japanese History · 1900 printed edition (NDL)

Tints & shades

Harmonies within the tradition

Complementary and triadic companions, chosen from real traditional colors — not computed values.

Similar colors

The namesake

ハゼノキ 櫨の木 — what the name literally points to.

sumac tree branches leaves